Amsterdam
The Dutch are most creative when being practical.
I have been to Amsterdam almost 30 times and I still get lost. The whole “café by the canal” layout of the city makes it seem like I know exactly where I am when, in fact, I am walking in the wrong direction. This is really unfair since the architectural detail of the city is fascinating and unique once you slow down a bit.
However, most of my trips involved the IBC broadcast and film trade show in September. I would try to steal a few hours wandering about the city in between demos and meetings. My demo suite was on the floor above the Leidseplein Apple store where I could look out over the leafy square and hear the bell and rumble of the trams. I watched a sudden squall scatter the Dutch for a few seconds before they efficiently donned their rain gear and carried on. And that is all I am allowed to say about the Apple demos.
Modern Dutch cuisine is delicate and creative although perhaps a bit too adventurous compared to standard American staples. Not all of my colleagues could eat every course, but I loved the lightness of the fish and creative vegetable dishes. In contrast, it is always worth a trip to the 5 Flies for hearty, traditional Dutch cooking in a 17th century maze of winding staircases, intimate rooms and Rembrandts. There is also a wonderful collection of restaurants right next to the Leidseplein where you can chose among several Argentinian steak houses, Thai, Italian and more standard tourist fare.
During work hours I have eaten my share of catered lunches with strange little sandwiches that only contain one ingredient. After retiring, I must admit bitterballen and a large gin and tonic once functioned as breakfast after a night of champagne and dancing.
Do not miss the chance to have a full Indonesian rijsttafel, but be very clear to the wait staff about the amount of spice you can stand. Rijsttafel consists of many small dishes all served at once and kept warm over sterno flames. A handful of these dishes will not be messing around with tepid “tourist heat”. My favorite rijsttafel restaurants were around Rembrandtplein where you can settle in with a beer either before or after dinner to watch the trams and the world go by. Most Dutch cafés have a wide variety of beer as long as you like Amstel or Heineken. Just ask for “beer” and live dangerously.
Go to the museums, but get there early — right when the doors open. The ability to stand close to Rembrandt’s The Night Watch is quickly compromised by selfie-snapping Instagrammers within 2 hours of the opening of the Rijksmuseum. In the cavernous Van Gogh Museum there is a guard whose full time job is to say in a very loud and spooky voice “Noooo Photos!”. This effort is only marginally successful. Most importantly, you need to pronounce the painter’s name “Van-GHOKHHHHH” like you still have a bit of bitterballen in the back of your throat. Otherwise you risk the subtle “over the top of the reading glasses” look from your new Dutch friends.
Even if you are iffy about classical music, one of my favorite experiences was listening to music performances at the Concert Gebouw concert hall. It has some of the best acoustics of any concert hall in the world with its old school charm and the free drink at intermission. We did not know about the free drink and so took our time getting up at the break. Frankly, I have never seen an entire hall full of old people empty out so quickly. Where did they all go? Ah, the bar — where you can only get “beer” now that all the pre-poured wine has been guzzled. Amateur Americans! Check the concert schedule before you leave home and work your evening schedule around this unique cultural experience.
