Phnom Penn is noisy, crowded and falling apart so, in other words, perfect for an adventure. The wealthy are driven in their Land Rovers and the rest try to get through the day. But there is an energy and a drive that keeps attracting people — young ex-pats and social security seniors.

The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum are a must visit even though it may one of the toughest things you will ever see. You can’t think about people in the same way after you have studied the Khmer Rouge. And you mustn’t look away just because it is upsetting.

The Royal Palace is also worth the trip, but don’t expect it to match the size and grandeur of Bangkok’s Grand Palace. See if you can arrange for a cyclo ride — these three-wheeled pedal cycle-rickshaws are both harrowing and fun.

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