Cologne

Köln is know for two major things: the Kölner Dom or Cologne Cathedral (started in 1248) and tiny, tall glasses of beer. The Dom is impressive, scary and may cause you to seriously rethink both your insignificance and mortality — as the builders intended. If you are in good shape, climb the stairs to the top of the bell tower, but it doesn’t get any less scary up there. The stunning images of the cathedral at the end of WWII show it still standing in the midst of a flattened city. Rather than trying to preserve German medieval architecture, it was rumored that the Dom made an excellent landmark for the Allied bombers to better find their targets.

And as to the tiny beers or kölsch, the locals are very particular about all the rules having to do with this pale, hoppy and bright style of beer. The brewers must follow the Reinheitsgebot (purity order) adopted in 1516 which states clearly “the only ingredients used for the brewing of beer must be Barley, Hops and Water”. It also specified the maximum price to be charged, but I think that part is conveniently overlooked! And if you squint hard, you might notice that they now use yeast. So much for progress.

But the really interesting thing about kölsh is that it is served in tall, cylindrical glasses (Stange or pole) in a round metal serving tray (kranz or wreath). The server just keeps putting new glasses in the tray as he passes by and notes the number of consumed glasses with tick marks on a cardboard beer coaster. I was informed that this is to make sure your beer doesn’t get stale like in those nasty litre mugs. I’m not sure I believe this as I have never let any beer get stale, no matter the size or shape of the glass.