London
“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.”
I’ve been traveling to London since the mid-1980’s when my girlfriend and future wife (conveniently still the same person) and I ventured for 3 weeks across the scepter’d isle. Our travel tech consisted of the ripped out back of the UK Frommer’s book, a map made of paper and some coins for the pay phones. We started in London where we stayed above an Indian restaurant and had instant coffee with burnt toast for breakfast. Things could only get better.
I also went back almost yearly to talk to film and video editors in the SoHo area of London. I once visited 8 separate post production companies in a single day with a bag of crisps and a lager for lunch. Meeting with the BBC and other broadcasters was always eye opening as I got to see a real TARDIS from Dr. Who — unfortunately I couldn’t use it for actual time travel as it was currently in for repairs (something about a dodgy sonic screwdriver). Auntie Beeb sincerely apologized for the inconvenience.
Just a few words of advice for my American compañeros: Shut up and go to the theater. Every. Night. (The theaters are “dark” on Sundays.) Get half priced tickets at Leicester Square or book the more popular plays well in advance. And don’t go to see Cats — experience the legitimate theater in an intimate space like the Donmar Warehouse. Or the bigger and more impressive spectacles at the National Theatre. You can always tell the true Londoner because they arrive unhurried and are seated just minutes before the curtain rises.
I once trod the boards at an Apple event in the West End, but only to flog some kit. And that is all I am allowed to say about that.*
*American translation: professional product demos designed to sell Apple gear.
As for museums, all the standard ones like The British Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum are required, but my absolute favorite is the Tate Modern followed closely by the much smaller Design Museum and the Churchill War Rooms. And I love the little museums with their quirky personality and sense of British eccentricity. The perfect example of that is the Sir John Soane’s Museum. To absorb that last bit of unique British culture see if you can attend one of the evening or lunchtime classical concerts at St. Martin in the Fields. The acoustics are stunning and the church is easy to find in the center of Trafalgar Square. The best way to plan your trip is, of course, to check Time Out London for all the latest exhibitions.
London is quite the restaurant town, but you can still get fish and chips or a Sunday roast with mushy peas. The Indian food may be some of the best you have ever had — there’s no “tourist” spice here so go easy on the vindaloo. Do try to squeeze in a high tea at the Ritz or the Wolseley. My favorite classic English dining experience is Rules — expensive and worth it (get the wild game main courses). They expect “smart dress” so you will feel slightly bumpkinish unless you have the foresight to wear your bespoke sport coat (mine is from Thailand and therein lies a story).
Remarkably, a full English breakfast is the perfect antidote for a hang over — just not every day, for obvious reasons. Ask for “brown” not “wheat” toast as I once had an Italian waiter sneer at me “Ov course eet comes weet toast.” Like duh. Separated by a common language indeed.
Just a quick word about Portobello Road — it is a wonderfully eclectic outdoor market so if you are looking for some unique British whatnot you will surely find it there. Go early on a Saturday.
They say that war is the only way Americans learn geography, but I am afraid you should actually study a bit of history too before you go. I spent a lovely evening in the Sherlock Holmes pub meeting some new friends who would become life long pen pals and I tried to explain to some confused French nurses that New Haven is actually in Connecticut. They were not amused. The pubs are the British third space and as comfy as a living room. Find one with an open fireplace in the winter since this is precisely why God created damp draughts. But whatever you do, do not try to keep up with a British gentleman who likes to drink. Or be prepared to order the Full English on the morrow…
